Ins and Outs of Nightlife: The New Fashion Barter System

By Leah Goryachkovsky

Traversing the “hard doors” and obscene vibe checks of nightlife is daunting enough, but there’s now a new element to New York’s most difficult game. Say goodbye to the old-fashioned uniform of a cocktail dress and heels and hello to knowing what you can bring to the table. Your money is no good here! 

The other night, I decided to stop by Paul’s Casablanca with a friend and witnessed a first: a tailor taking the bouncer’s measurements for a custom suit in the middle of the night as he was “curating the crowd.” I waited in line with a strange look on my face that can only be described as portraying an emotion somewhere between puzzled and amazed. Right in front of me was the bouncer, his posse, and a tailor with luggage full of fabric samples. The bouncer and the other people working the door were taking a break from letting people in as they discussed different shades of purple for the suit. Out of the 100 samples of every color and textile possible, they’ve officially narrowed it down to lavender.  “You have to go with this one,” said the doorman. The bouncer responded with, “I’ll consider it; I think I like purple.” Quick to correct him, the doorman cut in, “Oh? It’s lavender. It’s not purple, it’s lavender.” The posse of 5 men conferred amongst themselves as to what shade of purple the suit should truly be, and I couldn’t help but also want to participate in this riveting discourse. 

As I stood in line reflecting the fever dream I was in, it dawned on me that this system of regulating nightlife was the most true to New York approach there could be. Of course, there exists a pseudo-barter system for entrance to the club that takes the form of an exchange of services to elevate one’s style. You heard it from me first: monetary contributions are out, and social currency is in. 

As I try to make sense of the contemporary nightlife scene, it feels necessary to take a trip down memory lane and explore how fashion and nightlife have been historically so deeply intertwined. Fashion and nightlife are two vibrant threads that intricately weave through the fabric of New York City’s cultural tapestry. In the city that never sleeps, the convergence of these two realms shapes trends, defines identities, and fuels creativity. From underground clubs in Brooklyn to swanky rooftop bars in Manhattan, the city provides a stage for self-expression and liberation. It’s a melting pot where people from all walks of life come together, united by their desire to escape the mundane, and their clothing very much reflects that. In this nocturnal playground, fashion becomes a form of communication, a language spoken through style. 

1920s

The relationship between fashion and nightlife extends beyond the dance floor, permeating every aspect of New York’s social scene. From exclusive fashion week after-parties to underground drag balls, the city offers a kaleidoscope of experiences where fashion and nightlife converge, creating moments of magic and inspiration. The history of fashion in nightlife in New York can be traced to the 20th century and the influence of the Harlem Renaissance. Institutions such as the Cotton Club and the Savoy Ballroom not only showcased groundbreaking music but also became incubators for new styles of dance and fashion. The zoot suit, with its exaggerated proportions and flashy details, became synonymous with the era’s nightlife scene, reflecting the spirit of rebellion and self-expression. 

1960s & 1970s

In the 1960s and 70s, New York City’s nightlife underwent a seismic shift with the rise of disco culture. Clubs like Studio 54 and Paradise Garage became legendary for their hedonistic parties and flamboyant fashion. The emergence of disco brought upon a carefree and eccentric expression of self through bold patterns and flaring garments. Studio 54, in particular, became a playground for the fashion elite, with designers like Halston and Diane von Furstenberg rubbing shoulders with celebrities like Andy Warhol and Bianca Jagger. It was a time that started the scenery culture of nightlife. Outings were dedicated to what you were wearing, where you were wearing it, and who saw you wearing it.

1980s

A personal favorite of mine was the new wave of subcultures brought to New York City’s nightlife in the 1980’s, from the punk rock scene of CBGB to the underground vogue balls of Harlem. Fashion became more eclectic and rebellious, with designers like Vivienne Westwood and Stephen Sprouse pushing the boundaries of style. Punk fashion became synonymous with rebellion, characterized by ripped jeans, leather jackets adorned with spikes and studs, and anarchic slogans scrawled across t-shirts. Vivienne Westwood epitomized this spirit of defiance, with her iconic punk-inspired collections challenging the conventions of mainstream fashion. Meanwhile, emerging streetwear brands like Dapper Dan’s Boutique and X-Large blurred the lines between fashion, music, and nightlife, catering to the tastes of urban youth. Simultaneously, across town in Harlem, another subculture was taking shape: the underground vogue balls. These vibrant events provided a platform for LGBTQ+ communities, particularly black and Latinx individuals, to express themselves through dance, fashion, and performance. Vogueing, a dance style inspired by the poses of fashion models in Vogue magazine, became the centerpiece of these balls, accompanied by elaborate costumes and theatrical performances. Fashion played a central role in these events, with participants competing in categories such as “Best Dressed” and “Face,” showcasing their creativity and flair.

1990s

The 1990s saw the rise of rave culture and the emergence of superclubs like Limelight and Tunnel, where fashion became more experimental and DIY. Ravers adorned themselves in neon colors, oversized clothing, and eclectic accessories, creating a visual spectacle that mirrored the euphoria of the music. Meanwhile, the downtown club scene embraced a more gritty and androgynous aesthetic, with figures like RuPaul and Michael Alig pushing the boundaries of gender and identity. Drag queens, club kids, and performance artists blurred the lines between fashion and art, using clothing and makeup as tools of transformation and defiance. In this era of cultural ferment, fashion became a means of reclaiming space and asserting individuality in a city that was constantly evolving. It was a time of experimentation and rebellion, where the rules of style were meant to be broken and boundaries were meant to be pushed.

Today

This exploration brings us back to today. What are the current fashion dynamics in nightlife? Fashion and nightlife, like all trends, swing on a pendulum and always have a comeback. The current landscape can be defined as the following: The enclaves of Bushwick types frequent the Good Room, underground raves, and dancey bars. Meanwhile, the more uppity Manhattan elitists stick with Silencio or Little Sister Lounge as a means to assert themselves as people who have “beat the door.” However, we are seeing a shift in clubs that equalize the two, resulting in their convergence. There is a reclamation of individualism and playing to one’s strengths. The tailor, for example, knows where his talents tie and is unafraid to proposition them in a 3-piece suit with a suitcase in hand. It is that type of established confidence and sense of self that will get you into the door. Come as you are, and be ready to advocate for your coolness.